Fairly imporant, in my opinion, tip. If you have a printer that has printed parts. Print spares. Of everything.
Of course breaking a part may lead you to make something better if you have the stuff to do it but still have spares.
Case in point, my Z axis end stop broke. It's hard to zero a printer when the thing that tells it when to stop is broken. I tried gluing back it together, no go. I tried heating and smushing backing together. No go.
But I had some 1/8" by 1/2" bar stock so bent one end at 90 degree angle of about the right length. I then cut it off at the right overall length.
I drilled and tapped a m5x8 hole in the short section and two 1/4" holes in the long section that matched up with the pieces of the printed part.
A little grinding on a bench grinder to put the necessary screw relief in place and I'm back in business.
I'm printing a couple of spares now but I don't know yet if I'll leave the steel one in place or swap it out with a printed one.
I'm also printing them with 3 shells, layers and 50% infill in PETG. The original seems to have been 2 and 10% and in ABS. Not the strongest print in the world.
Anyway, if there are breakable parts on your printer then have spares. It'll save you some grief.
So my MendelMax 3 took a nose dive on me about a month ago. I had purchased and added the Auto Bed Leveling kit to the system. The steel plate that's used for the sensor that replaces the aluminum plate had a bit of a bend in it by the time it was said and done and as a result I ended up with a head crash on the plate as it was reading too far down.
Pretty much my fault for not noticing and thinking it through. Anyway I couldn't get the plate as flat against the glass as I wanted so I flashed the firmware back to the original so I could print something for a friend.
And that's where things went south. Every print was ending up like corrugated piping on the outside kind of like ^^^^^^. The layers repeated on all four sides so it wasn't bed slippage. Every 5 or 6 layers there would be a 'fat' layer protruding out making a ridge.
Long story short nothing we tried, I engaged the MTW folks on several occasions and in the end we were all stumped. Since I travel through the town they're in about once a month they were kind enough to accept my ask of could I bring the printer with me next time I passed through.
But then work took a nose dive and things got hectic and I just didn't have free time or in truth the enthusiasm to look at the printer for awhile.
Then this last weekend I needed to escape the world so I cleared some space and took the printer apart down to its component parts. The only thing I left intact was the wiring on the Rambo. IT takes less time to strip a MM3 than it does to build it but not a lot less since you have to take care to keep everything grouped etc.
I looked for any irregularities during the deconstruct, loose screws, things not butted against each other, shifting, out of alignment blah blah blah. Nothing.
Okay well I can't take a pile of parts to MTW so I build my printer for the second time from piles of parts.
I run a calibration cube and WTF, literally I said WTF, as it printed mostly good. As part of my troubleshooting I'd re-installed MC and S3D on different PC and thus didn't have anything but the default settings, none of my tweaks were there. So there was some zits on the sides here and there. This is also a third (fourth) brand of filament that I was trying, again as part of the troubleshooting just to rule out the ridiculous thought that maybe the three other brands of filament I had that had printed great before had all 'gone bad' at the same time.
So I tweak some settings from memory such as retraction, coasting, heating, cooling and print it again. And this one was as good as my first print.
Again I go WTF...
So I print an Elder Wand (bad design by the way, it's printed laying down so it requires supports and the shallow curves at the top and bottom result in layer artifacting. But asided from that it printed perfectly.
So yay, I have a great printer again. Why it messed up, I have no idea. How it got fixed I have no concrete idea. I mean obviously tearing it down and back up again fixed 'something' but what that was may remain a mystery.
I delved into my first TPU filament. There weren't a lot of options on Amazon, indeed there was a dearth of filament choices as all were unavailable. But I found a vendor that had some in stock through Amazon and the handful of reviews were good. The only moderate review was from someone trying to feed it through a bowden tube and honestly why would you downrate a product for that? It's like giving a gasoline car a bad rating because you tried to run diesel through it.
Anyway I got my filament, a nice red although the reds always seem to be slightly orange hued to me and this was no different. It was packaged in a plain box, no fancy (i.e. costly) color printed box or labels. It was well sealed in plastic with a silica gel packaged inside.
I was a little apprehensive about trying it since I'd read bad things about flexible filaments, they drip, they ooze, don't retract, retract more, and the postings had people printing this particular brand all over the place from 200 to 240C.
But I created a new profile for TPU based on my PLA profile. I increased my extruder to 225C as that seemed to be right in the middle of the manufacturer's recommendation. I left my bed at 60C. I turned the print speed down to 25mm/s. Retraction I left alone at 1.35mm which has worked for me in both PLA and PETG.
I printed a calibration cube first just to see what would happen. it came out great although a little undersized. 19.57mm x 19.78 mm. With PLA my MendleMax 3 will print somewhere between .05 and .1 mm off 20mm.
It worked so well I then looked to see how it would do on overhangs and with oozing between pin towers. It worked extremely well as you can see. Interestingly the most whiskering I got was after it was done with the overhang piece and still printing the pins. Up to that point the pins were very good and then immediately after the overhang piece was finished they started to get a little blobby and with whiskers.
Still I was so happy with the quality of the print that I did a 3DBenchy test. These images are it next to my first 3DBenchy in PLA which I believe I printed the same day I tightened the last bolt on the printer.
As you can see it's very good quality. Note that both were printed at a .25 layer height. In the pictures that show both boats the one on the left is the TPU one.
I'm going to print myself a watchband next. I also have a kilo of Hatchbox TPU coming in that will be able to do a direct comparison between the two.
So I just started my first roll of eSun's PETG and I must say I like it. The only change in my settings that work great for PLA was to increase the temperature to 245C. There may be other temps that work that was just the first one I tried and it worked fine.
My first 20mm calibration cube printed at 19.95mm x 20.75mm. I could adjust it a little more by changing belt tightness but honestly my OCD isn't 'that' bad. I really really like my MendelMax 3. The output quality has been great out of the gate and I've had no issues with it whatsoever. I've gone through 4 and a half or so rolls of PLA and now working on the PETG.
I then printed some overhang tests and those printed perfectly as well up to 60 degrees. I haven't tried a bridge per se but I did print this bunny by Virtox and it printed great without any stringing between the openings.
In the interests of 'science' I crushed the little bunny and it took a surprising amount of force to crush such a flimsy looking print. I didn't take a picture before I crushed it so I'm using an image from the thingiverse post.
The diameter of my spool of filament was right at 1.74mm with minimal change over a couple of meters.
I did have a minor clog in the extruder nozzle from switching over from PLA, probably a tiny whisker of PLA left and when I heated it up to 245 it turned into glass. It wasn't a full clog, just enough to cause filament skipping on fast runs. I pulled the PETG out and then used a trick I've come up with using a single thread from a piece of steel cable. I don't have a drill that small obviously but that tiny thread of steel cable fits with only minimal space to spare and it worked pretty well to clean up the nozzle.
One thing I've noticed with PETG is that when doing an unclog procedure there's no stretch like you get with PLA and I'm sure it's leaving PETG in the nozzle. It doesn't look at all like the end of a PLA unclog pull. I was using 160C to do the unclog as a rough guess and there's almost no information online so I guess I guessed wrong.
But I got it cleaned up without have to disassemble my E3V6 head, which while it's an easy head to clean up, is still a bit of pain.
I've printed a couple of flashlight mounts, a skull to compare against the same skull I printed in PLA and it's all good.
I like it enough that I've ordered another couple of rolls in other colors from eSun and unless those just end up bad, I don't think I'll be going back to PLA any time soon. Maybe for a super detailed print since PLA supposedly prints finer than PETG but I haven't tested that directly.
And in theory if you get the clear/natural 'color' you can print food grade (again in theory) objects. I have no need to print something to eat or drink off/out of but there you go, it's possible if you need it.
One thing to note is that PETG prints fairly shiny and this exaggerates the layers of the print. It's no different than painting any material with a glossy material. Not sure there's a 'fix' for that other than possibly spray painting it with a flat color.
As a recent member of the 3D Printer owner's club I was having inconsistencies with first layer adhesion. My very first print, a calibration box, printed okay on plain glass but I then looked at other options for PLA printing.
My first try was the basic purple glue stick from Elmer's. I had inconsistent results. Sometimes a print would be okay, sometimes not so much.
So I tried a mix of white glue and water. But apparently the 'washable edible' version of Elmer's glue is not the right kind. I had zero luck with that mix. So I found the old school Elmer's and had better luck with that but printing things like Darth Vader with Cape even with some brims had issues.
So I jumped on the IRC forums that the guys from MakersToolWorks pretty much live on and we got to talking and they recommended 3D Eez. It's on the pricey side but some other internet research, not a lot of sources though, indicated it was good so I ordered some.
It's supposed to be good for non-heated beds but personally I think it would work better for heated beds just based on the difference in holding power between a hot and cool bed that I've seen first hand.
I followed the directions and applied three thin coats letting each one dry, go transparent, before applying the next one and alternating the direction of the coats.
And the results were pretty amazing. At heated bed temps the smallest objects stuck so hard it is pretty much impossible to remove them from the bed. Even small surface area pieces act like they've been epoxied to the bed.
Then when the bed cools down, drops below 28C (ish) degrees the pieces pop off with just a light tap or pry from a spatula.
The material does 'wear' out over time but it does not appear to have anything to do with the number of prints but the amount of time it is heated. I say this because the entire surface faded out on me after about 3/4 of a roll of filament's worth of printing. Whether it was in the center of the bed where most of the prints were or out on the edges, it didn't seem to matter, it went from great adhesion to really bad adhesion and my skirt was just getting dragged around by the nozzle and not sticking at all.
You can run a damp cloth over the surface and get it back to sticking again but from personal experience it didn't get it back to the 'day one' ability to stick.
The material comes off pretty easily under running water water with a paint scraper so clean up isn't a big deal.
Applying it again and everything is back great for first layer adhesion.
I've now had my MendleMax 3 from MakersToolWorks for about 3 weeks now. By 3 weeks I mean from my first print till now after going through the build process. I've gone through roughly 2 rolls of PLA filament, also from MakersToolWorks.
During this time I've run into more than a few issues but they've all been the result of my not knowing what I'm doing. The printer itself has been rock solid the entire time.
Note several of the objects on this page were printed while I had a partial clog of my extruder nozzle without realizing it and was fighting with under extrusion of material. Also if you can't see any images in this article then check AdblockPlus. It's blocking them for me for some reason in Firefox. I assume because my image location matches some filter.
- Don't pull on the filament while the extruder is at temperature. It seems obvious right? In hindsight yeah, as soon as I did it I just closed my eyes knowing what I'd just done. I'd just pulled molten plastic up out of the nozzle and into the rest of the extruder where it's not supposed to be because hey that part stays cool. And as you might have guessed the plastic solidified and I had a big jam. And not the good kind made out of strawberries. But since I, and you if you buy one, put that extruder together I knew how to take it apart. It was fairly easy to clean up, the E3Dv6 that is in the MendelMax 3 is from what I hear a very nice design and one that helps stupid users get unstupid.
- Print out a filament guide sooner rather than later. Indeed you may want to do that as your first print. Without a guide it's possible for the filament to unspool and then get kinda tangled up and then things go downhill after that.
- When you put the extruder together, while you should take some care tightening the nozzle down against the heat break, don't be afraid of it. If you are then you won't tighten it enough and it may (read did) ooze plastic out the joint several prints later. Liquids, even viscous liquids like molten plastic, under pressure will find any opening. So extruder taken apart a second time.
- When you take the nozzle apart, make sure you get it cleaned, especially if you used heat to get the plastic out because you might just carbonize part of the plastic and leave a partial clog in the nozzle. It 'seems' to be printing okay but now you're under extruding. And if you try to increase the steps in the firmware you run into back pressure issues that will cause your extruder to skip.
- If you try to use a pick to clean a nozzle, then make sure you've already bought your replacements because friends unless you have a pick that's exactly the size of that nozzle hole, if you've heated the nozzle up then you've softened that brass and voila now you have a .6 or even bigger nozzle when you started with a .4.
- Make sure you put a filament cleaner on your filament. This could be something cool you printed from Thingiverse or just a piece of foam with a slit in it you stick on the filament. Especially if you're unfortunate enough to own a cat. Cat hair taking a ride on your filament into your hot end may be a bad thing.
- Skip the PVA (white Elmer's glue but NOT the washable kind, the old school kind) and water mixture, skip the purple glue stick, skip the big ass roll of blue tape. Go straight to 3DEez as your bed wash. PLA at least sticks like a frickin' magnet to this stuff while it's hot, I mean jerk the printer around as you try to yank them off kind of strong, but as soon as the temp's drop to 28C or less they pop off with just a light tap. I've done probably 15+ prints with my first coating (3 coats per the instructions) and it shows no signs of wearing out.
- Rafts suck for leaving the bottom of your prints texturally sucktastic. But if you follow #7 you won't need rafts. You may need brims for very tiny parts but you shouldn't ever need to do a raft again in my admittedly limited experience.
- If you run into any issues go to the IRC channel. Let me repeat that, if you have any questions or issues, go to the IRC channel. The MTW guys in my experience are super knowledgeable about their products, they all use their products and they've 'been there done that' when it comes to settings, tweaks and issues. And they seem to be pretty nice folks. And I'm not saying that just because they're in the same state I'm in because one of them is Canadian and well.... yeah... 🙂
- Be VERY careful if you start screwing around with sending GCode to the printer. If you don't for example change from relative to absolute movement you can send things way off of where they're supposed to be. In my case I wanted at the end of the print for the Z axis to raise up 2mm, the X to move to the left and the Y, aka the plate, to come all the way forward. I figured out my error as the plate just didn't want to stop and yet another mad slam on the emergency stop button I'd wired up on the power strip I was using for the printer.
- Make damn sure your slicer software is reading your thermistors before you send a heat command. I managed to not do that once, it only happened the once so it was some kind of fluke but it was reading room temps on the thermistors and I noticed when I started smelling plastic that was at way too high temperature and smoke was starting to come from my extruder head. I don't know how hot it got cause I hit my emergency power off switch but I'm sure it was well above where it should have been given the smoke.
- Many, maybe a lot of, printable models posted on the various sites are not in great shape to be printed. Many have have been ripped from some software (i.e. a game) or something similar. They suffer from non-manifold surfaces i.e. they have holes in them or just very hard to impossible to print shapes without a ton of support structures and the like. Or their default orientation may be bad for printing. So don't expect every print to work and it might have nothing to do with your printer but rather the object you're trying to print.
- Be careful with your heat spreader if you're screwing around with your printer. I managed to yank one of the leads off my heating pad and was wondering why my bed wasn't heating anymore. A little solder and it was good as new.
- Buy some basic spare parts. A spare nozzle, a thermistor, extruder head heating element, these seem like a very good thing to have around since if you screw them up you're down until you get replacements and they all seem kind of consumable and are stupidly cheap to buy now.
- An enclosure of some kind can make being int he same room a little better if it's a room you watch TV in or something like that. The printer is not noisy per se but having it 5 feet from your head it will compete a little with the sound of a show or music etc.
In my last few weeks with the printer, I've only printed PLA and honestly my first results using the default settings were good but over the last few weeks I've learned to dial things in. Increase retraction a tiny smidge, play with speeds and cooling and everything.
After my first spool using MatterControl, the software offered for free and with custom profiles specifically for the MM3 by MTW, I didn't like some of the tool paths, they seemed less than optimal. I would catch myself watching the prints and going "What? Why are you going way over there? You should go to that one it's closer and on the way!"
I do have some experience with CNC machining although in metal and paths and such. Additionally I found myself wishing I could manually put some supports in just a couple of places given the ability of the printer to print overhangs and inclines so well. So I bit the fiscal bullet and picked up a copy of Simplify3D. This is not a cheap purchase and honestly for most people MatterControl is more than sufficient.
But with Simplify3D you can have easy per slice control of heat, cooling etc, you can manually place just the minimum support structures you need and in the end I decided it was worth it. I honestly think if the makers of S3D would drop the price to say $49.95 they'd sell far more than 3 times the number and end up with a more significant profit margin. Valve has proven that beyond my satisfaction that selling games at the 25-33% cost they sell FAR more volume than they need to make up the difference in per unit pricing. But anyway, the tool paths that S3D uses are indeed more optimal than MC's with less total traversal and can reduce your time to print by some small percentage. At some point I may test that claim by printing a semi-complex print that takes long enough to give useful data. In the end it's up to you and your wallet to determine if it's really worth it and for most people it very well may not be given the high quality of the software that MTW is providing for free.
Since I printed my first calibration cube I've printed a butt ton of things, most of them of no real use except as gifts. Some sets of figures for a game called Pocket Tactics and again the quality of the printer is great.
<- This for instance is a little feature test I created in Max for the fun of it. There are some other parts to it that are missing, you can see where they were broken off but it was a series of thin verticals about 15mm high that went from 90 to a 30 degree slope. But the way I joined them to the plate in the 3d application left them weak and when subjected to a kids curious fingers they ended up broken off. Watching it create something in mid air for those long bridges is pretty cool.
I did have an interesting screw up, I set my speed to 80mm/s to test print a whistle at high speeds. But I forgot that I'd set the override control in S3D to 130% movement rate which if my calcs are right puts me at 103mm/s print rate. And other than a few clumps on the outside it actually printed. Sadly the whistle doesn't work that well. It's certainly not the 118db that is posted by the designer but I did print it at mach 5 so to be fair I should try printing it at a more realistic speed.
In a side tangent, if I had a miniatures based company then 3D printers would be a concern of mine. Granted you need someone with enough skills to create 3D figures but there are plenty of skilled folks on the internet doing that kind of thing for free.
Right now I'm waiting for my replacement nozzle to come in, the one I broke, and after so much constant "Vrrrrrrr" noises my office seems extra quiet. But I should have it tomorrow in time for the long weekend and we'll be trying some PETG maybe. Or at the very least finish printing out the dice tray I designed. Once a geek always a geek.
Disclaimer: I didn't grammer or proof this article. Any typo's, bad grammer or just flat out hands aren't typing what brain is telling just enjoy the humor value in. Unless those things bother you at which point you may wish to not read any further more. (see what I did there?)
Note if you can't see any images in this article then try disabling AdBlock Plus. Not sure why but on Firefox for me it's blocking my images in my articles. Only disable it if you want to see the images and aren't, it's not critical to the content of the article.
Full disclosure: I have nothing at all to do with the company, I don't know any of them of the personally, I don't own stock in their company, I have not been reimbursed in any way. The only link I have with them is we both reside in the same state, but not the same town or even the same county. This is my first 3D printer so I only have the internetz to base my comparison opinions on.
This is the first installment in my experience with the MendelMax 3 3D Printer sold by MakersToolWorks which is a U.S. based company and who seem to be genuinely dedicated to their product and their customers.
What follows is my first several days with the printer which consisted of spending a hour or three each evening putting the parts together. I tried to bring up any 'gotchas' I ran into during the build with this article.
Some background, recently my desire to try the world of 3D printing overcame my reticence to spend money and thanks to a Google alert I became apprised of a Black Friday sell on a 3D printer I’d had my eyes on. The MendelMax 3 was the one that popped up in my feed. It was one of the two candidates I was looking at, the other being the MakerGear M2.
But MakerGear had pulled their kit form and dropping $2K for the ability to print the world's most expensive replacement stove knob (we’ve been missing one for the last 6 years, it’s a long story), well that just wasn’t going to happen.
But then I see MakersToolWorks BF sale and I was able to get the MM3, the deluxe upgrade and 5 spools of filament for a fairly significant savings over the MakerGear M2 and so I had a decision to make. I pondered and considered and vacillated and finally, literally, a couple of hours before the sale was going to end I dropped my order. And here are a few small parts of the results of that order...
For the “TL;DR” crowd -
The kit I received was impressive overall. Most of the parts were well organized and packed. The fit and finish of the plate pieces that MWT produces directly were flawless. Indeed I only had a small issue with threads on two pieces that they source from another vendor.
The documentation while it’s not going to win a Pulitzer or keep you entertained while you build will get you a completed printer if you take your time, read carefully and look at the pictures on screen instead of just printed out where you can zoom in on them.
The printer is massively sturdy once it’s complete with no flex or play anywhere. It's built like a brick house, she's my tomahto she's letting it all hang.... Sorry...
The v block and wheels system gives a very smooth feel to the printer. I had read an troll battle about them on one forum when I was doing my research but the anti-troll had convincing arguments for them and as it turns out it seems like they're were right.
The company appears to be online all the time and available for direct person to person chat and seem genuinely interested in helping people get up and running. I.E. their ‘tech support’ isn’t farmed out to another country where the support consists of someone reading from script.
If you had any idea how many times in my IT career I’ve beaten my head against my desk while “James” or “Laura” asks me if I’ve tried reseating the power cables or memory or CPU’s when I call in with a dead server.
I can’t really speak to the ‘value’ of the printer as I'm pretty much a newb but it seems to fare very well in comparison to the MakerGear M2 and indeed the Ultimaker and whatever other top tier printers there from what I've researched and seen first hand personally show up on my build plate. And although it’s only available in kit form you will save money as a result. But I’m a 3D neophyte so my opinion is worth what you paid for it. Unless of course you’re on metered bandwidth and just reading this did actually cost you something.
The output from the MM3 is easily as good as anything else I’ve seen pictures of out there and that’s ‘out of the box’ so to speak without any tweaking from me.
Bottom line, if you're in the market for a 3D Printer that’s above entry level and you’re not afraid of diving into a massive box full of parts, and kids it’s a lot of parts, let’s be honest and upfront, then I think the MM3 is certainly worth a look.
And as an added benefit they’re working on a automatic bed leveling system and will be included free at the time this review was posted.
In the gallery below note the inprocess storm trooper in the lower right being built without any supports, brims or rafts and how his arms aren't attached except at tiny little sections on the hands. How effin' cool is that?
For the “I like words” crowd -
About 10 days after I placed the order I come home to find FedEx tried to deliver a box. The next day was Saturday so I decide, eh, I’ll just have them hold it at the local fedex office and pick it up since they’re open on Saturday and I didn’t know if they would actually try to deliver it to the house on a Saturday. So I go online and change the order and tell them to hold it for me.
As I’m waiting on Saturday for the office to open so I can pick it up, the FedEx guy shows up again at my house and drops off a 40lb package for me. I also got 4 or 5 spools of plastic since they had a bargain going on at the time. Subtract that 10-12 lbs and the printer was more like 25 lbs I guess plus packaging.
So much for FedEx paying any attention to their customers wishes. Granted it saved me a trip I guess but it doesn’t fill me with confidence they’ll pay any attention to me for the next time.
I haul the box into my office where I have two desks cleared off, custom built and the last coat of tung oil put on it just 24 hours earlier just for this project and I proceed to lay out all the parts.
Unboxing was nothing unusual, everything had been packed into one box but most things were in sub boxes inside the main box.
Looking into each box and bag I didn’t do a parts check against a shipping manifest, primarily because I didn’t have one but in the end I had, I believe everything I was due.
One thing to note during the unboxing is the 5 stepper motors were packed in their own sub box but there was no padding in that box. As a result the motors, there being only 5 in a box that fit 6 banged around a bit and there was some cosmetic damage on a couple of them. Nothing worth bitching about but I note it here for your information. Mechanically they were fine.
Most things were packed well and smartly. All the nuts and bolts came in two divided tray organizers each with a lid insert labeling everything. Very nice. Much better than just bags of things.
Speaking of those nuts and bolts, I did somehow not have enough M5 nuts and M3 washers. I’m not sure where I went wrong, used them in the wrong places or if I just didn’t get them all or what but a couple of bucks at Ace fixed that issue for me. I can say I didn’t lose any to the floor.
My company had graciously and unknown to them printed out the entire build doc for me but I must be up front and unless you have a hella good printer, like NSA printing out spy satellite photo good, you will have to use the web pages of the docs on glass in some cases to figure out orientation or colors of wires or whatever by zooming into their higher resolution images.
The documentation is decent but... while this is my first 3D printer build, I have 30 years of professional IT administration experience and 40 years of hobbies that include things like finding the tank models that had the most parts as a kid up to owning and using a prosumer milling machine, rebuilding a 60’s mustang, making most of our furniture. Bottom line is I’m not totally a klutz when it comes to putting things together. And I can and do actually RTFM. If you've never taken apart a wind up alarm clock to see how it works and got it back together again or if putting together anything from IKEA causes you issues then a kit form of a 3D Printer may not be for you.
But eventually, best guess between 20 and 25 hours of not in a hurry double check everything work and having to get a defective board replaced which they did quickly and graciously, I hit the Home button. Oh shit! The X axis is going the wrong way. I dive for the power but not before it hit the end of the frame and the belt starts skipping. No harm no foul though i get the power killed and I unplug the X stepper, rotate it 180 degrees and plug it back in. Later on I would end up wiring in an big red slam with your fist to turn off the power on my power strip to cut power to the printer.
So back to homing. Hey Home Z kind of worked, it's high on purpose, I didn't want it hitting the glass but it worked. Home Y worked. Yay! I follow the steps to level the bed, since it's a 3 point bed it levels IMO easier than a 4 point bed would be. I say this from decades of working with 3D apps and the difference between a 3 point face and a 4 point face. Anyway it was fairly easy.
The free to you control software aka the 'slicer and code sender outer' they provide which is customized for their printer starts with a calibration cube by default when you add the printer to the software. But let's make it harder on them, no funny business some kind of super optimized square shape (<- that's a joke), so I load in an STL that I created in Studio Max and exported that was 20mmx20mmx20mm. I import and without changing any setting I hit print and see what happens.
Holy crap. A bunch of 1's and 0's that I made by dragging a cube shape in a 3D application are getting turned into a actual object I can hold in my hands. I honestly watched the whole 18 minutes it took to print. I take it out and measure it, I think I mentioned I do machinist stuff as a hobby so I was very curious as to what it would print at. And to my surprise and a little astonishment that 20mm x 20mm x 20mm cube measured 19.87mm x 19.82mm by 20.21mm (I still have it). So at or less than 1% error rate. And that's without any changes, nothing, just load and hit print.
I'd already hit up Thingiverse for some stuff and within a few days, by the way 3d printing is kind of slow, I had cable chains, fan mounts, filament guides, light sabres (multiple), batmen, enterprises, phone holders, torture tests, 3d benchy the tugboat, calibration cubes scattered everywhere as I slowly learned what not to do, figuring out what bed coating worked and trying to figure out why it worked one time but not another time and failing, but the printer just kept on printing in spite of me being the occasional dumbass.
The quality of the prints continues to amaze me as well as the entire 3D printing process itself. Reading forums about how people were constantly trying to fix 'whiskers', 'ooze', 'boogers', 'z artifacting' with their particular brand of 3d printers I just assumed it was everyone. But 4lbs of plastic later and I've not had any of that to deal with the MendelMax 3.
That I can create objects on my work system, export them as basically a text file that depicts 3d space in a 2d way then have them slowly but surely appear as if by magic in front of my eyes.
And the giggle factor of creating a virtual army of storm troopers to stand behind a orange red low poly darth vadar as a gift for a SW fanatic and each one costs roughly 50 cents to make and have him tell me how cool it is. Or handing out light sabres as gifts and having people tell you how cool it is.
I'll be honest the entire printing process can be mesmerizing, watching a shape slowly appear while you watch. And by slowly did I mention 3d printing is slow?
Is a 3D printer for everyone? No, not right now. It's not plug and play, not even the store bought ones. It's getting there and it's far better than it was even 2 years ago based on prints I've seen from that time frame.
But if you are at all mechanical in nature, and not in the lovely femmebot kind of way, and you still have a bit of that inner child in you then a 3D Printer may be something that would appeal. And you can make money from them. You won't quit your day job but I can easily see, and actually know someone, making enough money to pay for your printer and your materials so basically the printer becomes a freebie to you. Whether it's printing out cool things like 3d parts for board games (check the legality of that or just don't get caught doing it) or accessories for games or just an endless supply of tchotchkes there is potential for income out there.
The Build -
With that said there were a couple of places in the instructions where I had to sit back and ponder things for a bit and some things that might make it easier for you if you do venture down this path.
NOTE: IF AT ANY STEP YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS OR CONCERNS OR JUST WANT TO HANG OUT JOIN THE IRC CHANNEL FROM THEIR WEBSITE. Flint, Micro, Roy, Maxbots are always happy to help and I’ve rarely gone on there that there’s not at least 2 of them active. And I’m talking like on a Sunday evening before Christmas kind of always on there. If you ask about quality of prints, be prepared to provide pictures. They can tell a LOT by looking at your output.
So let’s go through the docs and I can point out where I ran into problems -
Up front when you can’t find a specific part mentioned, look through ALL the boxes. Some things you’ll find in weird places. Once I came real close to calling them after being unable to find a couple of parts but as it turns out they were in one of the electronics boxes. So just keep looking and you’ll likely find everything.
Base Frame Assembly - Nothing to report, pretty simple build. I will say having a set of engineers square is handy to have if you really want things square.
Y Axis Assembly - This required better reading skills than I gave it at first glance. They say use two washers, so of course after I got it half put together that finally registered and I had to undo the screws I’d put in and put them back with 2 washers. Tip: The second smallest hex wrench works well as a spacer for the front stiffer bar which for some reason has to be not touching the front plate. Well they do give a reason, to avoid rattling noises. Which makes sense because unlike the back stiffener bar it’s not secured to the plate. My best guess is for cosmetic reasons to avoid bolts sticking through right above the logo. I was tempted to mill in a couple of extra holes to attach it but decided to play it straight.
They use an old picture of the stepper motor to show the completed stepper build which for me was a little misleading at first because that image shows the same bolts and stuff that you put in the extrusion, you don’t actually attach them to the stepper mounting block like shown in the image. I can see why they put that image, so you know what the final assembly looks like without the extrusion bar in the way but still I cocked my head a bit and “What?” for a moment.
There’s also no guideline on how far down the shaft the stepper gear is supposed to be on the shaft. You figure it out later but I don’t like guessing during a build.
Bed Assembly Plate - Nothing to report, goes together easy enough, no brain farts. They stress not to cut the drive belt here, it would be discussed later. Guess what? It’s not discussed later that I found. I trimmed them a bit, leaving about 2” of belt free just on a WTH it doesn’t hurt I guess. Later I trimmed them a bit more. You want enough to have something to pull them tight with as they will loosen up a smidge after several hours of printing.
X Axis Assembly - I did get the braces that required grinding down a nub on each one. A few seconds on a bench grinder took care of that. If you’re using a file you’ll be at it a bit longer. This step is outlined in the build manual.
The idler bearing plate shows in one line drawing illustration being faced one way, but in the actual picture it faces another way. I went with the picture. This is also another place where I had to go back to the web and look at a couple of pictures zoomed in just to make sure I was understanding what they were saying.
There’s another big ol’ red DO NOT TRIM warning on the X axis belt. But I’ll be darned if I can find out at what stage I’m officially supposed to trim them. As with the other belt after I had everything printing I went back and trimmed them leaving enough to get fingers on if you need it although the X axis is tightened by moving a pulley that’s mounted to the rail such that it can slide back and forth.
Z Axis Assembly - This is where I had my first real problem. Up until now everything parts wise has been stellar and without flaw. But for my kit the two Z axis uprights were not tapped deeply enough to get the screws in them far enough to secure the top plate. No I wasn’t looking at the wrong end. As a hobby machinist though I had the right tap, an M5 if memory serves, and was able to extend the threads to work, so this delayed my build all of about 10 minutes to get my tap set out and tap all four holes. But someone without a m5 tap would have been stuck or worst case tried to Bubba it and force the bolts down and stripped out the threads completely.
There’s no real guidelines in the documents on getting the lead screws correctly aligned with everything so best guess is just eyeball it if you don’t have the appropriate squares or calipers to give you plumb. It’s not super critical that they’re vertical to the 4th digit. I did have to run my lead screws through the lead nuts several times to work them, this step is mentioned in the docs and isn’t unexpected. I also put some lube on the threads even though delrin is technically self lubricating.
Controller Hatch Assembly - Pretty simple although I have black plastic bits not the translucent ones show in the pictures.
Electronics 1 - Pretty straight forward if you can wire a lamp the right way. I would strongly advise wiring the power for the LEDs for the logos now while you have the PSU handy. Way later on in the document when they get to that part they advise “you can remove the side plates and Y axis bed to make this easier” when if they told you to do it now it would have been WAY easier. Getting that Y Axis perfectly, not just close enough, aligned is easier said than done and I was loathe to take it out and put it back. As it turns out just remove the 4 screws from the bottom that hold the two supports that hold the PSU in place is far easier than remove the side plates and Y Axis. But really just wire the power for the LED’s now.
Extruder Assembly - You pretty much have to watch the video linked in the manual to put this together. You will need the parts from the Extruder Fix It pack to actually build it. In the Fix It patch is a small tube of thermal compound, it’s not mentioned anywhere but from my years of building computers I put a dab in the hole the thermistor goes into figuring it would help transfer the heat and give better readings. It doesn’t seem to have caused a problem although I don’t know that it was necessary.
A couple of parts of the extruder are 3D printed, on my particular sample my spring wasn’t really attached on the bottom side so I added a small bolt there to keep it from slipping out. I think there’s supposed to be a printed nub there, on mine it was very small, looked like a printing artifact to be honest and wouldn’t keep the spring in place if that’s what it was designed to do.
Other than that it wasn’t a hard step but you do have to read carefully and watch the video once or twice.
Here’s a minor gripe of mine, they don’t include the fan mounts. I’m sure they’re easy enough to print for the consumer and make a good first project but honestly there’s no great way to attach the fans IMO without them. I just had them dangling off zip ties. It’s one area where I wish they’d of provide those so you could actually ‘finish’ your extruder/x axis assembly at this point.
End Stop installation - These were pretty easy although I ended up splicing in about 8” more wire for my X Stop so it would wire manage cleaner. The length I received with the X axis all tx asix for teh same reasons, cleaner wire runs. he way up to the top of the Z wasn’t long enough to make it to the rambo if it was in a cable chain. I actually extended a few of the wires for cleaner wire runs.
Bed Heater and Glass Installation - Pretty simple to do although my rear glass mount doesn’t fit quite as nice as I’d like against the curved edge of the Y Axis bed. Minor complaint that the majority of people would never notice.
Electronics 2 - This is where the meat and potatoes of the build start and where you can run into problems. Almost ALL of the pictures of the rambo are upside down compared to how you will be working on them so it’s VERY critical that you pay attention to that bit. There are also no 100% wired shots of the Rambo that I could find.
I found it useful to just turn my manual upside down during most of this part so the pictures and the board matched.
USB and Testing - And here’s where I hit a showstopper. Let me upfront say that MTW didn’t screw around with me and got me a new Rambo out ASAP. So with that out the way my particular Rambo wouldn’t take a program. Everything checks out, power is there, lights are there but when I try to submit a program it just pings it 6 times then times out. If you google the error and this particular board there are a fair number of threads on it with this issue going back to 2013 maybe 2012.
What I tested - 3 different systems, all different OS’s, 3 different USB cables, luckily the USB cables that manage my UPS’s are these old school type so I had that option. Rambo was being recognized correctly, right driver, OS’s were seeing it. All the right settings, processor, board type, com port were selected on each system. I checked the power and fuses with a multimeter (after spending half an hour looking for it, it was in the shed where I’d been working on a solar project a couple of months ago) and those were all good. One of the systems I used had nothing but USB 2 ports, one had a mix and one was only USB 3. No difference in any port. Once I’d go over that with the guys on their IRC chat they emailed me a return label to send it back FedEx and they were going to ship me a new one as soon as they got shipping notification. It’s hard to ask more of a company than that.
Note the board didn’t work for them either so it wasn’t me. 😛 They even pre-programmed the one they shipped just to make sure there wouldn’t be any further issue.
Deck Side Plates - These went on easy enough. If you’ve made this far in the build then screwing in another 8 bolts isn’t going to break you.
Spool Mount and Filament Guide - The Spool Mount is just a big ol’ bolt and you’ll have to wait to get printing to get the guide. Small part and it’ll go aways to getting you dialed in I guess. There are several spool insert options on Thingiverse and I recommend printing a couple out, not super critical though, I ran my first spool with no issues stock.
Wire Management - Even with the Deluxe kit you still have to print a few parts for the wire management if you want to use cable chain. That had me scratching my head, I’d mistakenly gotten the impression all the cable management was included with the Deluxe in spite of it saying right there on the web page that you’d still have to print out part of it. I spent a few moments trying to figure out how to make this 1 meter of cable chain make any sense in terms of wire management by itself. Additionally if you get the injection molded cable chain that’s part of the deluxe kit, the actual connector to attach it is in the MiniMax downloads. I just printed out all the chains so it would all color match.
LED Indicator Assembly - Getting the power wired after everything was put together was a bit of a pain and I strongly recommend you pull your power for the LED”s during the Electronics 1 stage but it’s not rocket science. I mounted the diffuser and LED’s on the front lower base plate using the simple expedient of tape not wanting to epoxy them which I have plenty of. On the upper diffuser I used bolts to mount the front diffuser and used the second diffuser included to mount the led’s a little further back to avoid hot spots. Nice that they give you double diffusers so you can take that option if you want.
GLCD - Since I ordered the deluxe kit I got the GLCD kit so I can have print jobs without having to have a computer plugged in. I do plan on putting OctoPrint on a pi but having controls directly on the printer is something I wanted. My kit doesn’t quite match the docs, the way the keyed connectors are on the ribbon cable is backwards from the pictures in the docs. But insanely enough on a Saturday morning before Christmas there were company folks active in their IRC channel and we just confirmed I’d just put mine together backwards. With my GLCD I also got a laser cut plexi type case for the GLCD. One of my parts wasn’t fully cut which left me with one of those head scratch moments then I realized it was just missing part of a notch and a few moments with a file fixed that.
For what it’s worth I honestly haven’t used the GLCD other than to play around with it for a few minutes. I have an old desktop that I can dedicate to the printer and have just been using that.
I'll post my after a few weeks article in the next few days to give a longer look at the printer. I wrote most of this after getting the printer built but unable to program the Rambo so I had time on my hands.
Sadly B&N has decided to discontinue the Nook Simple Touch and Simple Touch Glow. It's a shame as for a dedicated e-reader for my needs it was perfect. Perfect enough I own 7 of them, one for each member of the family and a couple of spares. The new model is a couple steps backward in my opinion and I'll only be picking one up assuming I absolutely have to.
One of the kids developed an issue where it would only run when plugged in. The battery appeared to be fine, it would charge and hit 100%. You could start it off the charger but a few seconds into the home screen it would lock up. Plug it and it would restart and be fine until you unplugged it where it would run for a few seconds then lock up.
I tried several things, a Erase and Deregister from inside the Nook OS as well as a 8 canceled reboot wipe and re-image. I even rooted it and tried different launchers.
In the end what worked was pretty simple. I popped off the power button and used one of those little screwdrivers you get with an eyeglass repair kit to remove the torx screw under it. The screw was covered with a little 'anti tamper' piece of paper but out of warranty and not working that little paper didn't scare me. If you're a proper nerd you might have the Torx 5 (or 6) driver for it. I didn't so I used what I had which worked fine.
You then push the back so it slides about 1/4" the it pulls right off. The battery is attached to the back and a power cable connects to the system board. Pop the power cord off of the system board and then press the tiny white button that's on the system board where the power button cover was and hold it for 30 seconds to discharge any lingering power.
Plug the battery back in and the nook should start up.
If you're lucky like me your NOok should be fine at that point. What you've done, I believe, is cleared the NST and basically told the nook it has a new battery.
Time will tell if this is a permanent fix but it's been working for a few hours now and I'm calling it good until proven otherwise. So if you're having this problem, don't throw out that Nook just yet, it might be a very simple 5 minute fix and you'll be back to reading in the sunlight and avoiding buying into the 'We'll delete your books any time we like" Amazon dicatorship.
Unlike many other tablets, ereaders etc, the Nook Simple Touch and Tough Glow are very easy to replace the battery and you can pick up batteries online for between $15 and $30.
If you're running any WordPress sites and you still have an 'admin' account (shame on you for not deleting/renaming it) on them then you would be well advised to get in there and give the account a significant password.
There's reports of a fairly massive brute force attack going against WP sites against the admin account. Once they've got the password they install a backdoor and put code on the site that will turn your host into another node in a botnet.
You might also want to make sure you're 100% up to date.
Apparently they've taken over enough WP sites that they've got a fairly significant zombie army and as they convert more hosts they get more processing power which better allows them to take over more sites etc.
They're being used, reportedly, against financial instituations at the moment so you might want to make sure you're not using the same passwords on your WP site as your bank...
I strongly, as an IT professional, recommend that you don't use passwords but passphrases. A string of three words with a number in them somewhere, not on the end or middle. Using P@$$w0rd type stuff only makes it hard for 'us' to remember them. Green13mulejumpS is significantly harder for the bad guys to figure out.
They've stolen so many millions of accounts and passwords that they have a huge database of passwords to try so you have to go the extra mile.
So after a partial day of polish on the Zombicide module I made for Vassal I played the tutorial mission with it a couple of times to kick the tires.
First attempt was total disaster. My heroes couldn't hit for nothing and when I broken into the objective house I spawned a Fatty in every room. Fatties come with two walkers and take two damage to kill. The hero who came up with the fireaxe at game start had it snatched away by a zombie who also bit him. (Snatched equipment vanishes into the nether)
This left me with no options but to retreat back to the starting point and start searching. This reveals to me another house rule that I tried for game two. i.e. searching a room places a Searched token on it. Search it again and it flips over to a Searched Out token. But for game 1 we had infinite searches but before we could ome up with any weapon that could take out a Fatty those fatties and their mooks showed up and ate everyone. Note you can only search 'once' per turn by RAW. Each turn means the zed are one zone closer.
In short the heroes got eaten.
Game two (after some more polish to the module) went better. WIth the 2 search limit per room we had to head out once we'd searched the building clean coming up with nothing much better than our starting gear by the way although the hero with the frying pan did upgrade to board with a nail in it.
This time Amy couldn't miss with her pistol and she kept the roads clean for us so the others could move toward the other house.
With Nick opening the door we got lucky and there were only 3 walkers inside scattered between the four rooms.
Although a Fatty did wander in from the street side, Ned took care of him with the fire axe after Amy cleaned up his minions. Then we got two no spawn cards in a row. This gave everyone time to get into the building and to the objective to win the game.
When luck is on your side you can play fast and loose and take chances. When luck is not on your side you have to take it more careful and methodical but with the knowledge that every turn you spend not getting to your objective means more and more zed are being attracted to all the noise you're making.
Below is a screenshot from mid game, right after we opened the objective house. And the end turn where we all make it to the objective as more zed are about to pour into the house.
The zoom level is 33% to get everything on my tablets small screen at the same time. This map is only two tiles. Most maps are 4 to 6 tiles or even more tiles. There's only one end of zombie turn spawn point while other missions may have multiples and each spawn points gets its own spawn card. And each room in each building that you break into gets its own spawn card.
And any time zombies have two or more targets to go after you have to add enough extra zombies to make sure they split up evenly...
Layout design and format copyright http://guillotinegames.com
Card free to use for whatever. I felt it was much more likely that people in a zombie attack would end up with improvised melee weapons than they would with katanas, uzis and the like I'm going to bump up the search deck with a few of these.
Took scans of all the components and turned the board game Zombicide into a Vassal engine game. I used my Last Night on Earth vassal module and it made it a pretty quick set up of about a day to get it working online.
I'm doing this on my tablet which is fairly low res so the virtual table top is at 33% zoom level to get enough on it to be interesting. This is the tutorial set up or mission 00 out of the rule book.
If you haven't looked at Zombicide yet and enjoyed LNoE then you may find it of interest. You can pick it up for $60'ish on Amazon, much less than the $90 SRP you'll see it at some places or what you probably paid for it with the Kickstarter although you'd of gotten exclusive content by Kickstarting it.
The benefits of Zombicide is you can play it solo or up to 6 players without having to come up with zombie AI. Here the zombies run themselves. The rules are simple to learn but it's definitely not a pure luck of the draw game since you can lure zombies to specific locations. Much like you can use blood lust in LNoE to 'herd' the zombies around.
Games can last from 20 minutes up to several hours depending on how big a map the mission calls for or the objectives of the missions.
Over time as the characters level up in experience they're attracting more and more zombies to show up. By the time they get in the orange or red experience you might see an additional 7 walkers show up or 4 fatties who always have 2 walkers in two, that's 12 new zombies on the board.
Also any time the zombies have two or more equal targets they split up. If there aren't enough zombies to split evenly, you add more zombies until there are. Ouch....
Before you ask, no I cannot give you the vassal module. Or technically I can but without the images so you would have to scan your own pieces and stick them in there. That would be a violation of copyright and theft of IP etc.
The game has a couple of quirks that I'll probably house rule fairly quickly.
1) if a survivor shoots into a zone that has other survivors and zombies the shot always hits the survivor until there are no more survivors. This is apparently a design that's aimed (pun intended) to increase the difficulty factor. (I find it a little... let's just say I don't like it)
2) Infinite searching. You can search a room an infinite amount of times. This lets you avoid opening new buildings which cause a big spawn especially at higher danger levels. And it just doesn't make much sense. Granted you can do the same thing in LNOE but typically in LNOE it's kept in check because the heroes are underpowered compared to the zombies and have to avoid fights for the most part. In Zombicide when gear makes a HUGE difference in power, spending your time searching the same bedroom over and over again makes sense.
My kneejerk reaction to those is to use the following changes -
1) When a survivor shoots into a zone with another survivor, misses hit the survivor. This still makes guns that shoot multiple dice rolls very dangerous to use against zones. But it might mean the difference between a survivor living or dying. And has much more suspense impact, if Ned sprays some sub machine gun fire into a zone with Amy and 4 zombies and she lives? That's much more memorable than an automatic death.
2) Limit a room to 2 searches and at that point everything good has been found. Alternatively add in "The room is searched out cards" to the game and when drawn that room can't be searched again.
These two changes appease my sense of 'realism'. I'll play it stock for a game or three but I think I'll end up using those two changes.
Gameplay video (Note I believe the video doesn't make mention that the two zombies that get to move two zones are Runners, most zombies move only 1 zone)
I thought this might be good for a laugh for someone, especially anyone that thinks about design while they're doing things that prohibit them taking notes.
I spend the time from and to work primarily listening to podcasts of actual play sessions and/or thinking about game mechanics. Listening to podcasts of people playing and making comments about how they like or don't like their system of choice is always a good source for ideas.
Unfortunately I tend to forget my ideas when I get to my destination since there's always something there that's demanding my attention.
So I've started using voice recognition on my phone to send emails to myself.
Today it ended up being particularly WTF -
"So you can run on your turn to change 2 suns um but when you do run all your actions are in pairs making a milli a tag at the end of your run can you damage is bruised so charge your phone is fucked hard I don't know if we should be around with this I'm running running should make it harder for you to eat it and that should also work well to up hello so players are the ones are going to be running so we don't...." - The remaining text was lost in transmission.
The translation of that when cleaned up and made sense of is the following which was primarily about charging which I like because it's very cinematic. I had a charge rule for KO but this I think is more refined actiony and allows greater narrative freedom while at the same keeping players from charging around like loons every turn:_
On a character's turn one of their actions is to move around the scene. This can be done either as a normal move or a Charge.
With a Normal move the character move from one zone to another zone or move freely about their current zone. They may also use it to Engage any other creature in their Close zone.
Alternatively the character may Charge. In order to Charge the character must be able to act and move normally, not be Rooted, Impaired, etc. With a charge they can traverse two zones. For example to move from Long range to Short range to Personal range.
Note: It is fully permissible to use Charge when Engaged with a target to charge another target or by moving away into Short range and then forward again into Personal the current target. This movement of course is subject to the usual Attack of Opportunity mechanics triggered by leaving a hostile creature's Personal space.
Charging Impairs your Contest rolls until the start of your next turn. If your roll is already Impaired, for example by making two attacks or using a Massive weapon, then it's also Handicapped.
Any Melee attack made at the end of a Charge has its damage dice pool automatically Bumped. Attacks made 'en passant' before the end of the Charge do not get the damage Bump.
(again the textures are just stand-ins because I had them from digitalizing LNOE awhile back"
The green capsules are zombies. The green lines are their current paths. Many are just random shuffling, if they don't sense or hear something in rnage they pick a random location up to their maximum walking distance and head there.
The longer ones that all terminate in the red capsule are the zombies that have sensed a nearby hero and are converging on him.
All the red dots are blocked nav mesh points that have to be pathed around.
They have a zombieHunger variable which is how far away they can sense the heroes. There's also a zombieHearing variable for listening. My thought on the last is that when ever there's a fight, if a player runs or searches a location, a noise marker is dropped. The 'loudness' of the marker is how far away a zombie can hear it. So searching a location, fairly quiet, meleeing a zombie, a little louder, using a firearm, pretty loud, using a chainsaw very loud, using a stick of TNT pulls every zombie from across the board. They're only pulled of couse if they dont' have a Hero targeted.
So each round the players make noise would start to pull zombies in from various distances across the board depending on how loud it was. This could force the heroes to constantly have to flee their scavenge points.
It could also open using something loud in one section of the map to pull undead toward that area to give a couple of turns of non-interrupted searching in another spot. And allow for 'loot cards' like "Alarm clock" "Walkie Talkie" etc to give the heroes resources to manage the zombies.
Eclipse Phase PDFs
The Eclipse Phase roleplaying game is released under a Creative Commons license. To facilitate access to the PDFs, I am providing a complete set of links to the current updated version of each on t......
Freebook Sifter - A Resource for Free eBooks
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(Note: that's an O, not an A)
One of the things about Karma Opposed is that all rolls are opposed (duh) and both the 'instigator' and the 'opposition' roll dice to see who wins. No "You need a 17 to beat this" where that 17 is static throughout the scene. Rather it would be as an example a d12+4 each time. So it might be a 5 on some turns or a 16 on others.
With that said, I'm considering putting the onus of both rolls on the player when the player is the instigator of a contest, i.e. they're the ones who 'started the contest'. They make their roll and make the opposition roll and make the rolls all at the same time, just with a specific color for the opposition. I'm not sure if that adds a level of interest or not though. It certainly would take away any chance of 'GM fudging' accusations or 'you let us win, you made us lose'.
As an example for a combat contest if Magus tries to fry a goblin with elemental fire he rolls his attack dice and the defense dice. Then we add the modifiers and figure out who won the contest. But if the goblin then tries to attack Magus with a spear the goblin (aka GM) rolls his own attack dice and Magus rolls his defense dice.
The idea of course is to keep the players involved in whats going on by their having to be physically involved in both attack and defense by dice rolls on their turn and the GM's turn. Rather than a passive mental exercise of paying attention which with the vast array of crap, especially electronic crap, that players have to distract them that can be an impediment in keeping them paying attention to what's going on because nothing matters to their character until it's their turn again.
But if the various bad guys scattered through the initiative order are constantly forcing the players to make their defense rolls, they're going to be more focused. Or just get irritated that you're taking them away from words with friends on their phones and quit playing. I didn't say there weren't any risks in such a mechanic.
One thing I will be doing is putting the task of remembering things they've caused on the players. So if Magus's attack Impaired or Handicapped that goblin it's up to Magus to remind the GM when that goblin goes.
If Magus used a focus ability to add Lingering to his attack such that the goblin takes 3/4 of the damage on the first turn and another 1/2 of the damage on the next it's up to the player to remind the GM to add the damage.
Basically I'm trying to add mechanics to relieve some of the book keeping burden of being the GM so rather than focus on getting all the mechanics right, (and just fudging things when they forget) they can spend more time on the non-mechanical, i.e. narrative portions of the game.
Speaking of narrative, KO will continue my push to have mechanics that the player's narrate the effects of their successes, the GM will just narrate/elaborate on them as necessary or for failures. Since good narration opens the player up to getting bonus dice (which is determined by the other players, not the GM) then there's a definite carrot to go with the stick of having to narrate.
So rather than the GM going "Your sword cuts his arm and blood sprays" for the 18,000 time the player gets to narrate just how awesome their maneuver was. And increasing your narrative pool by a factor of 5 by bringing the players into can't not make for more interesting narrative.
I think the dividends you get from making every player a narrator in what's going on are pretty large. It enforces the concept of co-op narration rather than a passive source of random values by rolling dice.
Player narration/inclusion is also the driving force behind the Spectacular mechanic in KO which is a narrative golden ticket for both sides of the table.
I find there's a huge difference between games with a diverse and complex tactical engine in them and light mechanic engines for tactical scenes in terms of how involved and 'in person' the players are.
Don't get me wrong, I enjoy 4th Edition DnD combat, for example, but as a mechanical engine of decisions and tactics and combinations rather than an organic one for driving the story. Players spend a lot of time choosing what to do based on the mechanics of their class which leaves them little time or apparent energy to be 'spectacular' in their narration on any given turn.
A tablet/smart phone touch screen that can extrude buttons up out of the surface to turn the touch screen keyboard into a real physical keyboard.
Watch This Touch Screen Transform Into a Physical Keyboard [VIDEO]
Tactus has developed a tactile user interface for touch-screen devices: transparent physical buttons that emerge from a tablet or smartphone's surface on demand.
After quite a bit of screwing around I finally got my Galaxy S2 to be properly recognized under Windows 7 x64 for the purposes of using ADB. While this is primarily for software development, it's also important for flashing non-OTA firmwares, rooting etc.
If you have a Galaxy S3 I hear they have the same problem.
Note: This has nothing to do with mounting the SD cards in the phone as mass storage in My Computer so you can access them like a thumb drive.
If you have Debugging Options turned on in your phone and get a CDC_Serial and Android (or SAMSUNG_ANDROID) unknown devices when you plug in your phone in a x64 Win 7 machine then try this -
Download and install KIES from Samsung, this is the safest way to get the USB driver pack, rather than assuming all those links on the internets to strange locations are valid.
Run the USB Driver setup application located in program files (x86) samsung USB Driver. Install them where you want, they don't install per se, it's more an unzip process.
Plug your phone in. In Device Manager right click and Update Driver (after the fruitless search for drivers has failed).
Select Browse My Comptuer for driver software.
Select Let me Pick from a list of device drivers on my computer.
Click Have Disk
Select a file in the Escape_25 folder. You may have to try this step more than once, took me two different .inf files to get it to work.
You'll get back a list of Manufacturers (Samsung duh) and then the sub components on the right.
Pick the Samsung Mobile USB Composite Device in the right pane. You may to go through each Samsung entry in the left to find it.
Say yes when it warns that we're not sure this driver is for this device. Give it time to install, you can watch the process by the installation icon in the system tray. Just double click it to open it.
Repeat the process for the other unknown device. Let it install.
Now you shouldn't have any unknown devices in Device Manager and more importantly you should be able to do a -
and get the hardware ID of your device showing up.
Hope that saves someone else a few hours of WTF'isms.
Key words -
Device not listed when using ADB Devices
Unknown Device CDC Serial CDC_Serial Android SAMSUNG_Android
Samsung Windows 7 x64 USB Driver installation failure